When i first used the Halo H2, i was surprised at how the colour of the light and the beam pattern was almost the same as my old Oldham halogen, but brighter.

The Oldham DL16 head is now on the Mk3 version. Only seen a low res pic of it but it has a single optic like on Mr Mikes Retro.

DP

When i first used the Halo H2, i was surprised at how the colour of the light and the beam pattern was almost the same as my old Oldham halogen, but brighter.

The Oldham DL16 head is now on the Mk3 version. Only seen a low res pic of it but it has a single optic like on Mr Mikes Retro.

DP

The Retro XP does have 2 optics, not one.

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just finished stripping the old lead acid battery from the old case, messy as hell job but no burns and a nice case to retrofit the NiMh battery's

The Oldham DL16 head is now on the Mk3 version. Only seen a low res pic of it but it has a single optic like on Mr Mikes Retro.
DP

Hopefully I'll have some good pictures soon - I saw one at Enersys's offices but don't want to say anything about it until they've sent their press release out...

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Slighty off topic but I think quite relevant.
Have recently been in touch with Enersys regarding the ability of their Lithium ion packs to withstand water.
The answer being they do not!
For somone like me, used to a lead acid Oldhams it is a bit of a let down!
However in view of the long life of these Li packs and low weight I think if I am doing Sir Francis I will use other lighting.

Slighty off topic but I think quite relevant.
Have recently been in touch with Enersys regarding the ability of their Lithium ion packs to withstand water.
The answer being they do not!
For somone like me, used to a lead acid Oldhams it is a bit of a let down!
However in view of the long life of these Li packs and low weight I think if I am doing Sir Francis I will use other lighting.

John, one of my EcoStars
160 ish lumens of wide beam for 12 hours, and then continue to burn for possibly days at a diminishing level, or option of a fllodlight on a completely seperate circuit. Runs on a little power pack on the back of your helmet with no trailing wires, can be recharged off an Oldham charger or from one of my double channel dedicated chargers. Weight, no different to standard Oldham. Check my web.

EDIT
Had a caller to collect a lamp and forgot to add, the beams will crank up to 520 lumens if you need more light.

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A bit more info for John and anyone else interested.
The Oldham DL 16 is designed as a coal mine safety lamp, and as such there are better choices out there for recreational exploration of metal mines. I have to give mention of Stenlights, Little Monkeys, Vipers, etc as well as my own offerings.
There are also the Oldham retrofit conversions such as Mr Mikes.


If you look at the Oldham LED headset you will see a metal ring which is a component of the heatsink system. This is of cast nickel and no doubt is reflected in the price of the lamp. Aluminium is not part of its construction in order to comply with coal mine safety certification.
The lamp is notable for its very narrow beam. The emitter used is of an early type that gives about 90 lumens for a consumption of about 4 watts. My EcoStar will give 168 lumens for a consumption of 1.68 watts so hardly needs much of a battery. Similar efficiency is available from many other lamps that use the latest Cree XM-L emitters.

For fans of belt mount, I do one of these which is the same size as Trigon helmet pack and gives 24 hours light on the standard setting.

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after my play about down box yesterday i may well be investing in the Mr Mike upgrade the lamp worked well on the 4.8v NiMh but the main beam was a pain to light paint with so may look at the warm Led option

but the main beam was a pain to light paint with so may look at the warm Led option

No reason why a cap lamp and photography lamp have to be the same one. What's ideal for one purpose may be a compromise for the other. Get a good cap lamp, then find a light source that gives the photo results you like.

Hi Roy,
You list the many advantages of you lamp but miss my point how does you lamp stand up to immersion in water?

Hi Roy,
You list the many advantages of you lamp but miss my point how does you lamp stand up to immersion in water?

Yes I did rather.
It is a standard Oldham head where the cable gland, normally a weak point, has been sealed with silicone sealer. Additionally, the pre-existing rather thin front seal is discarded along with the old refeflector and replaced with a 5mm neoprene seal.
As such, I describle them as suitable for full immersion but not for diving purposes. My standard test is a bucket of water for a few hours!
In reality, even if we dont even go through ducks, we have the occasional joy of wet ladders such as up to James Hills flats.
If a lamp wont stand up to this its useless in my book.

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My RF lamp went for an unplanned swim the other day. Helmet dropped off into the Carnon river with lamp and battery and got carried downstream 400 metres. I finally caught up with it after a half hour search, and it worked perfectly with no water in it at all.
Pleased and relieved, it was certainly a good test and shows Roy's products to be mighty robust.
But then.....Mr Fellows does make exceedingly good lamps 😉

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just fitted the Mr Mike retro xp and looking forward to using it on sat

just fitted the Mr Mike retro xp and looking forward to using it on sat

They're a good piece of kit :thumbsup:

@ Mr Mike - a question somebody asked me at the weekend but I forgot to email you about (timely reminder here!) - what voltage range do the Retro XPs work off?

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Standard voltage range is 2.3V - 6V, but will work from 1.3V input, but not all modes will be full power below 2.3V.

It will also work above 6V, with a dropper diode (installed by myself on the PCB - suitable for 5 x NiCAD / NiMH cells and 6V SLA batteries.

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Thanks!

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