When to scrap ropes · AditNow Community

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Tamarmole
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie Topic Starter

12 years ago

Anyone got any thoughts on when to scrap ropes?

I've got a rather nice 30m length of Edelrid semi static (I think). Last week it got a bit of a rub (should have used a rope protector). On the rub spot there is some light furring but the sheath is still in one piece.

My feeling is that it is ok and I am happy to continue using it, but it begs the question what level of damage is unacceptable?

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RJV
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

I'd still use that though I tend to use 11mm cables so can be a little less squeamish than those who use thinner ropes. Would probably cut the rope only if the sheath started to separate. Am sure others will hold wildly differing views however....

Mr Mike
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

My 10 year old 10mm Mammut rope can do Indian rope tricks, should I scrap it?

Mr Mike www.mineexplorer.org.uk

tomh
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

Some rope I bought had a booklet with it that showed photos of damage level.

I believe from what you have said technically it should be binned.

However with the health and safety culture I am sure that the rope is probably ok and the manufacturers air heavily on the side of caution.

Mr Mike
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

There is a big safety margin in ropes and slings, but it is amazing how quickly they can deteriorate.

I remember being told about a test COMRU did at the Lyon training place. Basically, a new sling was taken and put on a testing machine, it broke over its rating. Another new sling of the same type was rubbed on the edge of a brick (nothing excessive) and that broke at around half its rating.

However, rope does have its protection sheath, but still food for thought.

Mr Mike www.mineexplorer.org.uk

royfellows
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

Main cause of accidents = Human error
This right accross the board, SRT, cars whatever

My avatar is a poor likeness.

RJV
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

"Mr Mike" wrote:

Another new sling of the same type was rubbed on the edge of a brick (nothing excessive) and that broke at around half its rating.

I wonder then the effect of repeatedly wrapping slings around rusty rails?

tomh
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

These are pretty good

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280861947442;jsessionid=22E8DD4BCB40166A8DAADD3699E7ACE0?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D280861947442%26_rdc%3D1

Mr Mike
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

"RJV" wrote:

"Mr Mike" wrote:

Another new sling of the same type was rubbed on the edge of a brick (nothing excessive) and that broke at around half its rating.

I wonder then the effect of repeatedly wrapping slings around rusty rails?

I always think that when I do it 😮

Mr Mike www.mineexplorer.org.uk

droid
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#10

"Mr Mike" wrote:
My 10 year old 10mm Mammut rope can do Indian rope tricks, should I scrap it?

They all do that, Sir... :lol:

blackshiver
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#11

I have a lovely selection of 1987 (vintage) Edelrid Super Static of which the worst (just) is a 20M length which has only recently started failing to grip jammers. Or perhaps its the 1978 Jammer thats just worn out.

Indeed this rope did pass the RJV static tensile test last time out and didn't snap.

However, many years ago the BCRA tested a SRT rope that had failed on a foreign expedition. Over a radiussed granite edge I seem to remember a "good" section of it lasted about half a dozen moving strokes under load. I also remember that they tested a pair of mens M+S undies using the same rig - and they lasted longer. You should note that this was done at least a decade ago and I doubt Tesco value undies would offer the same resistance these days.

If in doubt - cut the rope into two lengths and dont take the risk.

Tamarmole
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie Topic Starter

12 years ago

#12

Does the strength of a kernmantle rope lie in its core, the sheath or a combination of both?

Or to put it another way is the purpose of the sheath just to protect the core or does it also have a structural function?

RichardLevett
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#13

She sheath is supposed to be just for protection, although it will have some strength in itself.

sparty_lea
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#14

Only once seen a rope snap in use.
Some guys messing around, using dodgy (and very furry) old climbing rope playing at river crossings with 'big is beautiful' knots and heavily weighted at very shallow angle.
Not surprised it broke, although the two blokes who were the heavy weight got a surprise.

There are 10 types of people in the world.

Those that understand binary and those that do not!

christwigg
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#15

I personally think in-situ ropes are infinitely more likely to catch someone out than your own.

We came across the following in Nenthead, fortunately the lucky punter was above it and felt it in their hand rather than coming up from below when anything could have happened.

[photo]Personal-Album-859-Image-85796[/photo]

royfellows
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#16

"christwigg" wrote:
I personally think in-situ ropes are infinitely more likely to catch someone out than your own.

We came across the following in Nenthead, fortunately the lucky punter was above it and felt it in their hand rather than coming up from below when anything could have happened.

[photo]Personal-Album-859-Image-85796[/photo]

I came up on something similar at Cwmbrwyno. Heard rockfall while eating my lunch and thought nothing of it.
Came out, detacked, and knew nothing until I came to clean my ropes.
Never noticed it on the way up even, should have gone to Specsavers.

My avatar is a poor likeness.

simonrl
51% (Neutral)
Administration

12 years ago

#17

Last May a bunch of us from NWCRO did the Croesor Rhosydd through trip, one of the guys was paying very close attention to the ropes. This was the 2nd rope where it went through the maillion.

🔗Croesor-Slate-Mine-User-Album-Image-75993[linkphoto]Croesor-Slate-Mine-User-Album-Image-75993[/linkphoto][/link]

It was re-rigged!

My personal view is that VERY light fluffing of a sheath is probably OK. But that's based on nothing scientific and no specialist knowledge. Bottom line, if a rope worries you it should be chopped. In the words of the original Llanberis Slate guide "two good short ropes are better than one long gnarly one"...

Would there be interest in a test of collected old kit? No promises but I could make enquiries.

my orders are to sit here and watch the world go by

christwigg
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#18

"SimonRL" wrote:

Would there be interest in a test of collected old kit? No promises but I could make enquiries.

If that happens, i've got a bit of rope that was sat in Nenthead for a good few years, then used to try and haul some fencing out of a shaft whilst tied to a van.

I would be interested to know how much of its original strength is left.

droid
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#19

Worth going on UKCaving and searching Bob Mehew's posts. He's done thousands of proper drop tests on rope samples and has unparalleled experience on how wear affects break strength.

He does the tests iunder the auspices of the BCA.

Jimbo
50.2% (Neutral)
Newbie

12 years ago

#20

"droid" wrote:
Worth going on UKCaving and searching Bob Mehew's posts.

I thought you needed a beard to join 😉

"PDHMS, WMRG, DCC, Welsh Mines Society, Northern Mines Research Group, Nenthead Mines Society and General Forum Gobshite!"