don't see why it shouldn't, it worked fine last time I used it. There's nothing to them really if all the parts are there, the flint is in place, the filter is not clogged up, the jet is clear and the rubber ring is good.

I have two of them. I WAS going to use one for caving again but SOME people got so sniffy about it.... ::) anyway you don't seem to be able to get the carbide these days


as for working v caving, I find that a battery lamp is better balanced for moving about in a stooped or uprigt position, bending etc, it gives a lighter helmet than one of those 'battery on the back' things

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as for working v caving, I find that a battery lamp is better balanced for moving about in a stooped or uprigt position, bending etc, it gives a lighter helmet than one of those 'battery on the back' things

Depends on the weight of the setup :lol:

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I have two of them. I WAS going to use one for caving again but SOME people got so sniffy about it.... ::) anyway you don't seem to be able to get the carbide these days

You can get it here;

http://www.caving-supplies.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/26012%7C%7Ccarbide~@c~@b%7C20%7Cuser%7C1,0,0,1%7C43 

There are lots of places it's use is discouraged or banned I believe.

ok I'll get some and bring it next time.... who would buy 1000kg of carbide?

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All of these lamps (and chargers) are made in China.
I'm not so sure about the latest Northern Lights one.

Only the ATEX or other certificaties are done locally. KSE sends them to a research facility in Freiberg, Saxony. I don't know about Durstmueller, but I assume that their certificates come from Austria.

So far my KSE at work as well as various Durstmueller lamps for exploration work well.

I don't use my own lamps for mining work, because mines usually have their own supply of lamps and there are often HSE issues with being certified to local standards, particularly at gassy mines.

I've used them for civils work, mainly tunnelling, where these things don't tend to be an issue ( apart from areas which are controlled, usually confined spaces or oil and gas sites where gas is an issue ). Most people in that sector use hand torches of various descriptions but I have used an Oldhams in the past, because I had one, and now I have a Raptor.

I've also used maglites with great success over a long period of time and I notice that it's now common to have a maglite strapped to your helmet as a back-up. I've never done this for tunnelling, because you can't drill holes in your helmet, but I suppose I could do it using a Centurion or something like that, through the ear-defender bracket.

it wouldn't work for mining because it's usual to have the ear defenders mounted. This is another reason I don't like the starp-round-the-hat, battery-at-the-back ones; I often have various oddments like goggles or ear defenders strapped round or attached to my helmet.

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A lot of issues here that I for one never appreciated Mr Derrickman.
I suppose from your point of view, if something works there is no need to fix it.
The only thing I would say is to beware the original Raptor if that is what you have, as they are not waterproof.
The Rapto Pro is a far better lamp for the bit of extra money, when Miles has them back in stock.

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KSE, Durstmueller and NLT are not battery at the back and/or strap-on-type. They will fit into the normal bracket like an Oldham or Raptor and the battery is in the headpiece. A strap is on offer for those who don't want to or are not allowed to drill holes into a helmet.

KSE offers a lamp that will meet the requirements of the mining industry in European countries (ATEX and everything). Durstmueller is certificates ready.

I've seen the KSE one. I did think of it, because as a surveyor I do sometimes turn my helmet backwards while working and a cable lamp is a bit of a nuisance in that respect.

Then again, I usually simply push it back ( partly because I often wear a full-brim type hat ) and the cable is handy as a counterweight to stop it flopping about or falling off backwards.

I didn't know the bit about the Raptor not being waterproof. I have the one with the top-exit cable and little black switch, is that the one you are referring to?

it was pretty wet in Geevor last week, lots of water coming down from above in places, and I didn't notice a problem. Then again, if you are saying it shouldn't be submerged, I can probably predict that this won't be an issue :lol:

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I didn't know the bit about the Raptor not being waterproof. I have the one with the top-exit cable and little black switch, is that the one you are referring to?

it was pretty wet in Geevor last week, lots of water coming down from above in places, and I didn't notice a problem. Then again, if you are saying it shouldn't be submerged, I can probably predict that this won't be an issue :lol:

I bet it just means it's not rated for any particular depth, much like Oldhams, but I've been regularly washing mine in a bucket for years 🙂

I've had no intention of submerging my light during use but can think of at least 3 occasions when this has happened ::)

Yes, that is the lamp to which I refer. Top exit cable.

However, I have had no experience of using one myself, it’s just what I have been told, and confirmed by Miles the importer on one of his postings.
This model is no longer on his website so I assume that he no longer imports them.
You could always send Mile Moulding a PM and see what he says.

The only other point is that I personally see no difference between a situation where you have to stand under running water, say wearing waterproofs to perform some task, and full immersion.
If the lamp is not waterproof, water will find its way in.

As a point of interest, Scurion do not guarantee their lamps for diving!
Its on their website.

Also, on the funny side, years ago I had an Oldham which had developed a crack in the back of the headset through the charging keyway. I certainly had not been doing any diving in it, but simply a wet ladderway, and my companion advised me that it was half full of water.
I though that the beam pattern was a bit off. I could have put some guppies in it, rather like one of the sidelights on my old Mazda.
:lol:

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A lot of issues here that I for one never appreciated Mr Derrickman.
I suppose from your point of view, if something works there is no need to fix it.
The only thing I would say is to beware the original Raptor if that is what you have, as they are not waterproof.
The Rapto Pro is a far better lamp for the bit of extra money, when Miles has them back in stock.

Roy, I use the original Raptor, and as you rightly say it is not very waterproof, but can easily be made so.

I had an issue with moisture in mine on a couple of occasions,the switch terminals had gone green, so I cleaned out the inside, smeared some silicone grease around all the inside,incl the terminals/lens, them a small amount of silicone sealer on the glass/rim & the cable gland, now it's fine even in very wet soughs (swimming) oh and I took the battery out of the box and mounted it on the helmet, heatshrunk and sealed with silicone, great little lamp now!

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It sounds to me as though it may be getting in at the cable gland. This is also a problem with Oldhams, why I do as you did and fill with silicone.

It looks easily fixed.

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The only other point is that I personally see no difference between a situation where you have to stand under running water, say wearing waterproofs to perform some task, and full immersion.
If the lamp is not waterproof, water will find its way in.

Depends on the depth, pressure of water acting over the whole surface of the lamp, including points where cables enter and exits the lamp body.

I actually don't blame Scurion for not selling their lamp specifically as a diving lamp (and diving I presume to mean diving rather than ducking a sump or short periods of immersion).

The WiseLED is perdominently a dive lamp, it's waterproof to 300'. Most people look at the price and say 'how much!', every diver I've shown it too thinks it's very reasonable. Horses for courses again!

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The only other point is that I personally see no difference between a situation where you have to stand under running water, say wearing waterproofs to perform some task, and full immersion.
If the lamp is not waterproof, water will find its way in.

The WiseLED is perdominently a dive lamp, it's waterproof to 300'. Most people look at the price and say 'how much!', every diver I've shown it too thinks it's very reasonable. Horses for courses again!

Simon, I have seen a divers torch that cost more but outputs less.
So yes, I agree your comments.

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How odd, just did a search on "KSE camp lamp" and the first hit was here, bit late for you Simon but you've seen my cap lamp now.

The 15 hours on high seems right (guess about 75 hours on low). Beam's a bit narrow compared with some (I'd like high beam to be slightly out of focus) particularly if you're used to incandescent bulbs, but more powerful than a Petzl incandescent. Love how small and compact it is (no lead) and the build quality is what you’d expect of a professional lamp (There are ATEX explosive atmosphere versions available). On the whole I’m very pleased with it, yes I’d prefer a STEN or Mr Fellow’s lamp but these are twice the price and I’ve my hand lamp if I want thousands of lumins.

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I have always worked on the following categories of lamp;

1) about the same as a carbide - ok for things less than 6ft away, low-level illumination of areas up to about 15 or 20m, can just about read by it

2) about the same as a maglite - good for close work, illuminates quite small areas over surprising distances, good for reading by, no real use for anything else

3) about the same as an Oldham lead-acid - good all-round lamp sufficient for most practical purposes

4) about the same as the headlights on a HiLux - preferred alternative if available!

and I find this is sufficient for most purposes.... my Raptor seems to fit between (2) and (3) due to its powerful but over-tight focussing, meaning I can see small objects at great distances but all-round illumination is notably lacking

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Guess the KSE would be between 2 and 3 as well, my handlamp about 5!

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actually another 'category 2-and-a-half' lamp would be 'hand torches from Woolies with 9v square batteries'

so category 2-and-a-half might be defined as 'you'd think it would be nearly as good as an Oldham, but you'd be wrong'

those Oldham hand-lamps with the headset clipped onto the case so the beam shines at your feet, probably fit that group as well....

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I have always worked on the following categories of lamp;

1) about the same as a carbide - ok for things less than 6ft away, low-level illumination of areas up to about 15 or 20m, can just about read by it

If that's your opinion of carbide, you must have had a bloody poor one!
I used mine when I wanted better light than an Oldham - & yes a well fettled one with a 4W halogen lamp.

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