I have been vertical caving/mine exploring since the mid 1990s and for most of that time I have used, in common with the majority of British cavers & mine explorers, the ubiquitous Petzl stop. On the whole a very good bit of kit particularly when it comes to more complex rigging. I really like the stop feature which is something of a get out of jail free card. The downside is the less than smooth ride.

As a young and innocent lad I had tinkered with racks and whilst I liked the ride the fact that they were difficult to lock satisfactorily was, for me at least, a deal breaker.

Of recent months I have been playing around with ropewalking systems which has led me to immerse myself in American vertical culture. Rack technology had moved on considerably since my tentative tinkerings in the mid 1990s. Many Americans are now using what they term micro racks. These are four bar racks with an extended upper bar known as a hyper bar. The hyper bar can either be used for extra friction (turning four bars into five) or for locking off.

I was intrigued. Whilst the Yanks have a choice of half a dozen or so micro racks they are very thin on the ground on this side of the pond. A bit of research did reveal that Kong (purveyors of slightly off the wall vertical kit) did do a micro rack which they call the Rakong . A quick search revealed that Starless River had one in stock at £62. Needless to say I grabbed it. Turnaround was very quick and I can't speak too highly of Starless River.

A couple of days after ordering I had it in my grubby hands and very nice it looked to.

[photo]Personal-Album-3574-Image-89742[/photo]

I soon had a rope rigged from my favourite tree and started to play with it. The ride was excellent, much smoother than the stop. Locking off very simple thanks to the hyper bar:

Take the rope over the back off the rack giving a soft lock:

[photo]Personal-Album-3574-Image-89744[/photo]

Secondly take a bight of rope through the rack frame and twist:

[photo]Personal-Album-3574-Image-89740[/photo]

Thirdly loop the bight over the hyper bar:

[photo]Personal-Album-3574-Image-89741[/photo]

A "bomber" lock off.

Having practised with the rack a couple of feet of the ground until I could operate it with my eyes closed the time had come to try out in anger.

In the last few weeks I have used my new micro rack underground in a variety of holes:

The first outing was an incline shaft 100 - 120 feet deep sloping at about sixty degrees. As I didn't have my full weight on the rack found that there was a wee bit too much friction even on four bars and the rack ended up very hot at the bottom of the shaft.

The second shaft was a rather loose and full of barbed wire. Going over the lip I found that, with my full weight on the rack it ran very smoothly without jerks. I was able to lock off easily partway down the shaft to free of the mass of barded wire so that the chaps on surface could haul it out. The bottom of the shaft was loose and constricted and I found it very helpful to have a free hand to guide myself through.

The third shaft was an exposed sixty foot free hang with an awkward take off with a deviation just below. Getting on to the pitch was problem free although I made heavy weather of the deviation - this was me faffing rather than the rack's fault and I feel with a bit more familiarity it will not be a problem. The descent itself was pleasant, smooth and hastle free, four bars providing sufficient friction.

The final shaft was forty feet, a simple descent with no problems. A good smooth ride.


So having given the micro rack a good workout I what do I think of it.

On the plus side it gives a good smooth ride, it is controllable and it is very easy to lock (massive plus). And, if I am honest, it looks very cool.

On the downside I do miss the auto lock feature of the stop, I think it will take me a good while to become wholly comfortable with its absence. My second gripe is that the frame is too short at eight inches. Another inch would allow the user to spread the bars more and reduce friction more effectively. I am a hefty chap and have the bulk to overcome the friction however this could be a real issue for someone lighter.

On the whole a great bit of gear, albeit one that takes a bit of learning.

Yes they are a nice bit of kit. My Lewis rack wore out years ago, so had to use a Stop which I have never liked. Decided to get a Petzl rack, but wasn't impressed. Looked into importing a suitable rack from Australia, but the shipping was going to be more than the rack. When I had a chat with Starless River he said he could get me a Kong Rakong, which I have had for a while now. All racks need to be treated with respect, they are not as idiot resistant as Stops, but certainly give a much smoother descent, especially if you are like me fairly heavy.

Been using a BMS micro rack short dual for a while - very smooth. They also do a long version:



A short rack has the advantage that its easier to do changeovers mid rope (being about the same length as a stop).

The americans use a "French wrap" attached to a leg loop below the rack which will lock off if you let go. This link explains it quite well:

http://bats.varegion.org/downloads/newsletter/august2003.pdf 

The BMS is fine on 10.5mm rope but feels a bit too quick on something like Spelenium Gold 9.5...

Been using a BMS micro rack short dual for a while - very smooth. They also do a long version:



A short rack has the advantage that its easier to do changeovers mid rope (being about the same length as a stop).

The americans use a "French wrap" attached to a leg loop below the rack which will lock off if you let go. This link explains it quite well:

http://bats.varegion.org/downloads/newsletter/august2003.pdf 

The BMS is fine on 10.5mm rope but feels a bit too quick on something like Spelenium Gold 9.5...

So that's three micro rack users, before I posted I thought I might be the only one.

Not surprised it is a bit fast - they are designed to be used on the uber stiff "pit ropes" that the yanks favour.

I must admit I have been looking longingly at the BMS long micro rack for a while - where did you get yours from?

Been using a BMS micro rack short dual for a while - very smooth. They also do a long version:



A short rack has the advantage that its easier to do changeovers mid rope (being about the same length as a stop).

The americans use a "French wrap" attached to a leg loop below the rack which will lock off if you let go. This link explains it quite well:

http://bats.varegion.org/downloads/newsletter/august2003.pdf 

The BMS is fine on 10.5mm rope but feels a bit too quick on something like Spelenium Gold 9.5...

I use a Petzl rack and I always used to put a French prussik on the rope below it, clipped to my leg loop as a safety back up. Now I'm using a shunt for the same job. I feel that it does spoil the simplicity of the rack in a way and is definitely more faff but I'd rather that than the possible consequences of not having it. I know some people say just learn not to let go but it may not be quite that simple. A relatively small stone faking and hitting your breaking arm could easily cause an injury (or even just enough pain) that you are no longer able to hold on. That said I've always been a very cautious person so maybe I'm just being paranoid. 😞

I must admit I have been looking longingly at the BMS long micro rack for a while - where did you get yours from?

An American caver kindly bought one for me at a caving conference in the U.S. and sent it over.

http://www.innermountainoutfitters.com  will ship via UPS - the cost will make your eyes water though - they quoted me $49 flat rate medium box...

I must admit I have been looking longingly at the BMS long micro rack for a while - where did you get yours from?

An American caver kindly bought one for me at a caving conference in the U.S. and sent it over.

http://www.innermountainoutfitters.com  will ship via UPS - the cost will make your eyes water though - they quoted me $49 flat rate medium box...

I had looked at IMO (On Rope 1 also look very good) who carry a fantastic range of kit but I came to the same conclusion, shipping costs are prohibitive. I was also slightly concerned about getting stung on customs duties (not sure how this works).

Being a handy sort of chap I had thought of making my own longer micro rack, then good sense kicked in - making your own safety critical kit...... hmmm.

I can't help but think that Petzl are missing a trick here.

Rick see the below link for info about importing.

As you know I imported a Titanium steel exhaust manifold for my subaru and it only cost me £200quid in taxes (inc vat and import duty on a 1k item.

It isnt as horrendous as you think, if the value is less than 135 there is no import duty to pay etc either.

:)

I must admit I have been looking longingly at the BMS long micro rack for a while - where did you get yours from?

An American caver kindly bought one for me at a caving conference in the U.S. and sent it over.

http://www.innermountainoutfitters.com  will ship via UPS - the cost will make your eyes water though - they quoted me $49 flat rate medium box...

I had looked at IMO (On Rope 1 also look very good) who carry a fantastic range of kit but I came to the same conclusion, shipping costs are prohibitive. I was also slightly concerned about getting stung on customs duties (not sure how this works).

Being a handy sort of chap I had thought of making my own longer micro rack, then good sense kicked in - making your own safety critical kit...... hmmm.

I can't help but think that Petzl are missing a trick here.

Rick see the below link for info about importing.

As you know I imported a Titanium steel exhaust manifold for my subaru and it only cost me £200quid in taxes (inc vat and import duty on a 1k item.

It isnt as horrendous as you think, if the value is less than 135 there is no import duty to pay etc either.

:)

I must admit I have been looking longingly at the BMS long micro rack for a while - where did you get yours from?

An American caver kindly bought one for me at a caving conference in the U.S. and sent it over.

http://www.innermountainoutfitters.com  will ship via UPS - the cost will make your eyes water though - they quoted me $49 flat rate medium box...

I had looked at IMO (On Rope 1 also look very good) who carry a fantastic range of kit but I came to the same conclusion, shipping costs are prohibitive. I was also slightly concerned about getting stung on customs duties (not sure how this works).

Being a handy sort of chap I had thought of making my own longer micro rack, then good sense kicked in - making your own safety critical kit...... hmmm.

I can't help but think that Petzl are missing a trick here.

As far as I can work out on items less than £135 (this includes cost of postage) all you pay is VAT.

Since we're talking about Kong, I'd just like to say that they have a good attitude towards their customers.
I bought a Kong Indy descender the other day, new but suspiciously cheap off eBay then started wondering if it was legit. An email and exchange of photos with Kong in Italy confirmed that it's genuine (from 2007). While it didn't cost them anything to be pleasant and efficient, it does leave me feeling good about the company. Credit where credit's due. :thumbsup:

---

Since we're talking about Kong, I'd just like to say that they have a good attitude towards their customers.
I bought a Kong Indy descender the other day, new but suspiciously cheap off eBay then started wondering if it was legit. An email and exchange of photos with Kong in Italy confirmed that it's genuine (from 2007). While it didn't cost them anything to be pleasant and efficient, it does leave me feeling good about the company. Credit where credit's due. :thumbsup:

From what I have seen of Kong's gear they seem to have a refreshingly fresh attitude to vertical swag. I am not convinced that I would use one but their minimalist handled jammer is an interesting take on the theme.

Bit of an update. I am still loving the Rakong.

That said I am having issues with the bars. Last night I used the rack on an in situ rope to descend about forty feet down a stope. The rope looked to be around 10mm and fairly heavily contaminated with mud / grit. The rope managed to eat a 1mm - 2mm deep groove in the bars.

Part of the problem is the use of aluminium for the bars. However if the rack had a slightly longer frame I would have been able to spread the bars, reduce the friction and possibly saved the excessive bar wear.

A nine inch frame with stainless bars would do the job nicely.

I hear the workshop calling.

Bit of an update. I am still loving the Rakong.

That said I am having issues with the bars. Last night I used the rack on an in situ rope to descend about forty feet down a stope. The rope looked to be around 10mm and fairly heavily contaminated with mud / grit. The rope managed to eat a 1mm - 2mm deep groove in the bars.

Part of the problem is the use of aluminium for the bars. However if the rack had a slightly longer frame I would have been able to spread the bars, reduce the friction and possibly saved the excessive bar wear.

A nine inch frame with stainless bars would do the job nicely.

I hear the workshop calling.

I would get some pictures up of this to show everyone, as it is quite staggering what that rope did!

Imagine if it was a serious 100+ft pitch! :blink:

Ally bars do wear horribly, but that's the nature of the beast. Quite a few of my chums are making the change from ID to U rack. For me, the whole point of a rack is that it's a variable friction device. You have a longish frame and the ability to spread the 5 bars out....6 if you like thin ropes. If you're doing a 300ft shaft on 12mm you want to be on 4 spread out bars. 3 bars would be dangerous and 4 close bars would probably be slow and hot. The hyperbar is a good design, because if you get out of control, you can use it to jam the bars together. I like my 5 bar petzl rack. It's the tool to use... I have an ID but still use the rack unless I'm negotiating a spiders web (or something the caving club / rescue team have rigged).

Locking a J rack off isn't a problem. You just do it

Never had anything but racks. I concur with Drillbilly. Wouldn't use anything else, easy to lock off. Easy to use. Far better than a Petzl Go.

Never had anything but racks. I concur with Drillbilly. Wouldn't use anything else, easy to lock off. Easy to use. Far better than a Petzl Go.

I used my new Anthron DSD30 and have to say, what a pile of s***

Thanks for the write up, I have some Kong gear and rate it very highly.

Rack or bobbin seems to be a generational thing. I go out with a mix of people and the rack devotees are all just a few years older than me and swear by them for a smooth ride and a much easier time on long pitches with a rope of 200' (and several kilos) hanging beneath you.

I was tempted to try a micro rack but this advantage is diminished if it's a short frame design (hence easier in change overs) and you cant spread the bars enough for a smoother ride.

I think your assessment bears that out, so i'll be sticking with my current setup for now.

---

Never had anything but racks. I concur with Drillbilly. Wouldn't use anything else, easy to lock off. Easy to use. Far better than a Petzl Go.

I used my new Anthron DSD30 and have to say, what a pile of s***

That's true - at least I managed to get down the rope. That said at least your Anthron antics gave me a good laugh. 😉

Seriously though the Anthron really was a piece of poo on a mucky rope and, in a more serious situation could, have been a real liability. Not a good choice for mine exploration.

Thanks for the write up, I have some Kong gear and rate it very highly.

Rack or bobbin seems to be a generational thing. I go out with a mix of people and the rack devotees are all just a few years older than me and swear by them for a smooth ride and a much easier time on long pitches with a rope of 200' (and several kilos) hanging beneath you.

I was tempted to try a micro rack but this advantage is diminished if it's a short frame design (hence easier in change overs) and you cant spread the bars enough for a smoother ride.

I think your assessment bears that out, so i'll be sticking with my current setup for now.

The Rakong with stainless bars would be a total winner.

Very interesting information, everyone - many thanks!