New noses

After thinking I'd lost one of my DMM Boas (very handy for hanging everything from one's waist due to its size), I acquired a new one at the weekend and it's changed a bit!

🔗Personal-Album-2-Image-56347[linkphoto]Personal-Album-2-Image-56347[/linkphoto][/link]

The main body has gone over the what BMM call their I Beam construction and in addition, they've changed the nose design.

Old type, with pin:

🔗Personal-Album-2-Image-56348[linkphoto]Personal-Album-2-Image-56348[/linkphoto][/link]

New type:

🔗Personal-Album-2-Image-56349[linkphoto]Personal-Album-2-Image-56349[/linkphoto][/link]

Presumably there's a good reason for this - probably related to reducing the odds of snagging ropes?

The weight has been reduced from around 100g to 82g, although this is accompanied by a bit of a downrating of strength:

Rating / Old / New
Gate closed / 28kN / 25kN
Cross-loaded / 12kN / 10kN
Gate open / 10kN / 8kN

That said, there is now a 30kN version available, which weighs 95g.


DMM Factory Tour

This may be of interest to some: http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=335&ngroup=1 

To make this opportunity more accessible to a larger audience we will be hosting a number of Open Days where you can see first hand the factory in operation, being shown round with our DMM staff.

The first of these open days will be on Saturday November 27, and tours will run hourly starting at 9.00am until midday.

You will witness carabiner manufacture from start to finish, which will include watching our now famous Hot Forging Presses at work, or even see first hand the birth of some Dragons.

Its first come first served, with spaces limited to 6 individuals in a group, but we can accommodate 4 groups in every hourly slot.

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ive got two of the old type kindly donated by Detrus when i bolted MrC's ladders in Moel Fferna and i can tell you i use nothing else ...love em might get some more myself soon.. 😉

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8kN open.


If my maths is up to speed, you could hang 3 Suzuki Bandit 1200's off it.

Just to give a little perspective..... :lol:

8kN open.


If my maths is up to speed, you could hang 3 Suzuki Bandit 1200's off it.

Just to give a little perspective..... :lol:

Indeedy - but the issue comes from shock-loading.

That said, in SRT, any sort of shock-loading is going to cause problems as the rope is not dynamic and you're going to be very mangled if you take any sort of fall that might get close to damaging a karabiner!

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Totally agree.

I'm not sure of the shock loading potential of the pelvis... ::)

Totally agree.

I'm not sure of the shock loading potential of the pelvis... ::)

Not great! :confused:

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I got a couple of these new(ish) type krabs a while back for my cowstails. They are absolutely brilliant for cliiping in to Y hangs etc - easy to get out of the knot again.

No more struggling about at pitch heads and re-belays!

:thumbsup:

Its a good trip round the factory.
The load tester is amazing.

You can generate 12.5Kn by falling 30cm!
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=293&ngroup=1